Sunday, January 4, 2009

Wool Kirtle 2008-2009

For 12th Night 2009 I decided to reprise my Tudor Tailor Kirtle from last year. Except this year I decided to make it out of wool and and to reinforce it with buckram as opposed to the hemp cording I used last year. With the exception of the bust still being a touch too wide because there wasn't the bulk of the hemp cording to take it up, I was really happy with this version. I laced it up on the sides instead of the back so all closures could be hidden by a future over gown. I just need to figure out what the over gown will be. And I need to hem the thing. The wool bolt was a LOT longer than the linen bolt, so I can't just leave the selvaged end a little long. I think I'll take this opportunity to actually trim the hem as well. I never do that, but I ought to.

Following are pics of how it all came out. The pattern I used was a scaled pattern from the book The Tudor Tailor.

Front and back of kirtle showing buckram side of lining and buckram layer. Nothing is going to go in those channels, they're just for strength.

Front and back of lining side of lining and buckram layer.

These next two images are after I have already attached the fashion fabric, the wool, to the buckram and lining layer and connected the front and back at the shoulders. What you are seeing here is an inside view after I've attached the edging. The pattern only calls for edging at the armscyes, but I went ahead and edged the entire bodice.

Here you can see the "Right" side of the bodice once it has been completely put together. I had a little trouble with the edging at the center front bottom so it's not very perfect.

And here's a view after I've put in the handsewn eyelets. I arranged the eyelets for spiral lacing which I have not ever done before.

Finished kirtle inside out. The skirt was pleated and then whipstitched onto the bodice.

A closer look at how the skirt attaches to the bodice.

Finito! Except the hemming.